Maui resident explores the land of happy people.“The Kingdom of Bhutan is an extraordinary destination!” exclaimed Sally Raisbeck of Wailuku, who recently returned from Bhutan, one of the last kingdoms on Earth. It is steeped in myth and sequestered within the Himalayan Mountains, a small country of fewer than 700,000 citizens shouldering in between global giants China and India.
Traditional culture and natural heritage are highly treasured there. “And yet,” said Raisbeck, “modernization and development are equally conspicuous in this complex and little-known country. It is truly a different world!
“It is a country where gross national happiness is deemed more important than gross national product,” she said.
Although you will witness subsistence farming, structures that house their hydroelectric turbine engine projects, and hard work, you can feel the auspiciousness of the deep and melodious sound of their dharma teachings, said Raisbeck.
“A magical reality seems to sustain the Bhutanese way of life and the country is so beautiful to look at,” she continued. “The colors hit you first. The buildings are all brilliantly decorated and the people are dressed vibrantly. We were greeted with smiles from schoolchildren walking home along the roads, older farmers in the rice paddies, and from women weaving outside their homes. The Bhutanese are a warm and open people, quick to smile and laugh.”
It’s no wonder everyone seems to be smiling. Bhutan is a country that has never been colonized, that limits the number of visitors to the kingdom, and whose government has implemented a policy it calls “Gross National Happiness.” In fact, the government is incorporating into its new constitution specific language defining “Four Pillars of Gross National Happiness,” which are good governance, balanced socio-economic development, conservation of the environment, and preservation and promotion of culture.
How does a kingdom remain happy? In Raisbeck’s opinion, “They are fueled throughout their day by their Vajrayana Buddhist beliefs, prayer flags flapping in that gusting wind, prayer wheels by the rivers, and monks chanting prayers in the monasteries. Their country swells with good intentions for all sentient beings, teaching the values of tolerance, nonviolence and a sense of brotherhood. It is truly the land of good vibrations.”
Also, the diversity of traditional dances helps keep the Bhutanese conscious of their heritage. Buddhist saints created many of these ritual dances in the 14th and 15th centuries. Like its other traditions, Bhutan’s dance is not just theater, but an integral part of spiritual practice and the country’s living culture today.
In 1960, the government cautiously opened the kingdom to limited and tightly controlled tourism, hoping that it would be an exchange of the human experience and not just a business. Compassion is still favored over capitalism and the tenets of Buddhism form the base of Bhutan’s legal code. They work hard to be an example of balanced ecology, sustainable growth, and a land of “Happy People.”
Today, as Bhutan celebrates 100 years of its monarchy and the recent accession of dynamic young King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, the country is navigating a period of unprecedented transition.
“Change is afoot in Bhutan,” said Raisbeck. “Despite centuries of self-imposed isolation, the Himalayan kingdom has opened the Pandora’s Box of modernization, and there is no turning back now.”
She said that Pepsi Cola built a bottling plant in 1997, 60 channels of satellite TV arrived in 1999 and there will soon be more mobile phones than landlines in the kingdom. Aman Resorts, an Indonesian corporation, is presently building resorts in Bhutan.
“The Bhutanese can get a Dzongkha font for their Microsoft Windows software, even though there are still no traffic lights in the country!” said Raisbeck.
The king pledges that while the development of Bhutan is extremely important, what is even more important is to make the Bhutanese people capable of overcoming the challenges of the future. He says, “The sovereignty, security and happiness of the kingdom will always be first and foremost for us.”
While they are trying to bring the benefits of the modern world to Bhutan, Raisbeck sincerely hopes that “they don’t undermine the very things the Bhutanese cherish about their unique culture.”
Bhutan, with its emphasis on happiness, may be a source of wisdom for the rest of the world. This kingdom gives us a rare example of a society that is consciously balancing technological modernization with its ancient spiritual tradition. In the long run, they teach us that it is happiness within that matters most to humankind.
Raisbeck advised, “Visit Bhutan soon, before there is any more change!” She hopes to return soon.
For more information on Bhutanese studies, go to: www.bhutanstudies.org.bt. For information on Bhutanese Art, consult The Dragon’s Gift: The Sacred Arts of Bhutan. For travel information, visit www.drukair.com.bt or www.tourism.gov.bt